The Castel Sant’ Angelo is like a labyrinth. It is made up of dark ramps, continuous stairs, and doors that lead to multiple locations. I can see how it served as a fortress – I had a very hard time navigating it. The maps and occasional “tour route this way” arrows that they have been placed at various points are relatively unhelpful as well. Perhaps it was in part exhaustion, or in part distraction from the beautiful view, but I found myself circling the same path twice before discovering some place new.
Nevertheless, the ancient mausoleum-turned-fortress-turned-castle-turned-museum is really quite beautiful. I’ve wanted to go inside it since I first saw it, back when I was 17 and had absolutely no idea what I was seeing. I remember walking along the side of the Tiber, looking up at the statue of the archangel at the top. I asked the other high school students I was with what it was, but no one knew. Now, a little over two years later, I know what all the structures I once saw are, and more. From the moment I got in Rome, I wanted to see the Castel Sant’ Angelo up close. Funny that in reality it ended up being on the second to last day.
I went with Katy, and we walked there after visiting the Vatican Museum. The walk was not too long, but it seemed to take much longer in the hot summer heat. The line was decently long, but it was in the shade, between the first defensive wall and the main structure. Upon entering, you go down some stairs into the monument, and then up a spiraling ramp in what feels like a cave. Following the ramp are stairs, and your reward for the walk is a lovely little courtyard with the statue of an angel. The statue is not the archangel that resides on top, but rather a simple looking angel, made of marble with iron wings. I love the distinct difference the wings have from the main body. From there are a couple of stairs and a couple of doorways. We chose one of the doorways first.
The doors let out into gallery rooms that showed religious artwork. The paintings were lovely, but spending the entire earlier part of the day in the Vatican Museums took a little glory away from them (sadly). A couple of confused turns, doorways, and staircases later, we found ourselves outside on the outer rim of the Castel. The view was beautiful. You could see St. Peter’s clearly, along with most of Rome. Katy and I took a minute to rest in the fresh air before exploring more nooks and crannies and eventually making our way to the top terrace. The view from up there was even better, but the sun was so bright that it was hard to see. The archangel stands directly above the terrace, close and intimidating, but majestic. Apparently, the statue was placed there to represent the archangel appearing over the mausoleum to mark the end of a plague in medieval times. That is also when the mausoleum got its new name as the Castel Sant’ Angelo. We spent a little while at the top, pointing out all the places we had been. Slowly, we headed back down, eyes stinging from the change in light.
I wonder which parts were original to the mausoleum. I wonder what happened to the ashes of Hadrian. There were many things I wondered as I walked along the spiraling ramp and back into the daylight. I can’t believe it’s been two weeks. Something about seeing the Castel finally allowed that to sink in. Taking a long last look, Katy and I made our way through the waiting street vendors back to the dorms.
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